John Williams and Trevor Smith on the cultural differences in what we eat
How I wish I could agree with Jonathan Nunn (From polenta to lemons: the everyday foods demonised by Britain’s class wars, 2 October) that food is no longer an indicator of class in Britain. He names “ackee, pierogi and shatkora” as typical working-class foods and suggests that the stereotypically middle-class lentils, quinoa, avocado and hummus are now “a quotidian part of the national cuisine”.
Sadly, I must disillusion him. I live in a post-industrial “red wall” town that voted for Brexit and elected its first Tory MP in 2019. In and around the town’s central marketplace, there are numerous cafes that serve hot meals all day. Every single one of them offers a near-identical menu: variations on a theme of the full English breakfast, traditional roast dinners, and things with chips, mostly pies, burgers and fish. They all keep busy, which suggests that this is what people want.